Cibo e Divertimento a Firenze
Food and Fun in Florence
Switching cities was hard. On our first outing Stan and I found ourselves at the steps of the Santa Croce. An American couple shared their love of Florence and reminisced about missing their Rotweiller dog, Razzle. We couldn’t connect. We were missing Roma! They liked the more relaxed pace of Florence, there are a fewer tourists here than in Rome. The scale is so much more contained and it is Renaissance picture perfect. Despite this, Stan and I were committed we would fall in love with Florence. After all, the first and only time I came here was on my honeymoon almost twenty years ago.
Back then, I remember being tired, exhausted from the festivities. Unlike Rome, I didn’t really get into the spirit of the place. As I phoned my son Hector, newly left for university, the sun started setting. That’s when I felt Florence, what a relief! As we turned around, the sun was setting on the Arno and we knew we would not be disappointed.
It didn’t take long before we experienced Italian kindness that is typical of our trip so far. This time it was at the butchers! We fancied some lamb - Stan didn’t really mind what we bought, as long as it was meaty! Broken Italian worked to the extent that the butcher, Mario, was picking up agnello. He seemed to be going the extra mile by adding a sprig of rosemary. I was delighted and it spurred him on. A copious (almost alarming) amount of salt was added, along with a smashed garlic bulb. All the while his daughter stood on, wryly smiling and proudly appreciative of her father’s work. She told me how to cook it; to cover it in white wine and let it simmer for thirty minutes. How did they know I am such a terrible cook? Of course, this prompted me to ask for a photograph. Immediately, he reached for his apron and tying it tight, he proceeded to reward Stan with his own pork dinner and added extra sausages for me. I can’t express how this moment felt. I also can’t share how wonderful the food tasted; though I can share a picture. From now on I know when it comes to salt; go for it! And the result, well delizioso, of course, I did as I was told!
Waking the next day, I felt a renewed sense of energy and excitement for the day. It’s hard leaving Stan behind to visit the galleries and museums but with the time I have it’s possible to be out a couple of hours and be back for him and for my work! It’s been fun coaching folks remotely from such a beautiful place. The Uffizi gallery doesn’t completely forbid animals, in fact they represent some of its most cherished pieces. The only problem is that they aren’t the alive kind!
Did I say that Florence was less touristic than Rome? I lied! Perhaps because it is a more contained city, I’m finding that the museums feel even busier than that of Rome. It’s been fun to watch the tour groups each with their own distinctive style. My personal favourite, the Japanese. All members of the tour wear a headset, so they move silently around the museum listening to their guide’s words of wisdom. This suits me perfectly as it means more opportunity to eavesdrop on the English speaking guides when close to something special.
Indeed, there is much to see that is special at the Uffizi. It’s like gorging on a twenty one course Michelin starred meal, until, like Mr Creosote you state; ‘Just another Boticelli’ before reaching your complete and utter capacity. A little part of me wished that more of the art had remained in the myriad of Florentine churches and villas it came from. That way the crowds would be dispersed and it would be an altogether more sedate experience. Yes, I do feel guilty for saying that!
Whilst much of the artwork retains a focus on religion, there are the occasional glimses into Greek mythology. A particular favourite was the painting by Piero di Cosimo depicting Perseus freeing Andromeda from the sea monster. In keeping with the theme of Greek mythology, Caravaggio’s depiction of Medusa painted on to a wooden shield is a sight to behold. In Renaissance time, the Medusa head was a symbol of prudence acquired through wisdom. Not surprising that the piece was commissioned by the Medici family back in 1598. Much like my learnings from Rome of the Barberinis, the Borghese and the Doria Pamphilj, I’m hoping to learn more about the most powerful of all Florentine families, the Medicis. I enjoyed dipping out from the crowds in an ante-room called the Hall of Maps. The Medici family goal in commissioning these works was to illustrate the might and power they held over the Tuscan lands. Look carefully and you’ll see that the mythology of the time is depicted too, with sea creatures basking in the ocean. Maps are particularly pertinent to me right now, and whilst in those days the reach of the Medici family was extensive, it is reminder of just how small our world has become.
Set back in a blackened room which you cannot enter, is a sculpture of wondrous beauty. Bernini’s Hermaphroditus takes centre stage untroubled by tourists crowding around. I’m sure many would look only once and miss the story behind it. The myth tells of an adolescent boy, the son of Hermes and Aphrodite who is beguiled by a nymph. In so doing, the Gods commanded that their two bodies become as one. Unique to this piece is the fact that, unlike everything else in the Uffizi, its provenance is not known. It only adds to its mystery.
If you need to take a break from the crowds, take a trip to the cafe on the roof terrace. It’s a fantastic place to get a roof-top view of the city. Try the Torta del Nonna which I believe translates to Grandmother’s cake - I can guarantee it tasted better than anything my lovely Grandmother ever made! Watch out for the birds though who are always on the look out for some action!
Walking back from the Uffizi, I was rewarded with a Florentian secret gift. A special place - once a convent, then a prison, now a residential hub and gallery. The installation within the basement of the former prison could not be more timely. As bodies clad in this pertinent fabric proclaim the value of humanity, love and peace! I didn’t have time to stop for a coffee in the lovely cafe of Le Murate, but if you’re looking for a different side of Florence I recommend you give it a try.
Falling in love in Florence
Sunset on the Arno
Mario, at the Macelleria Polleria Cirocco Mario
It was delizioso, Mario! Grazie mille
Some dogs are welcome at the Uffizi
Stan would only have started a fight with this Uffizi favourite
Bernini’s Hermaphroditus
The birds, like the Italians, are very friendly
Artwork from a secret Florence, at the Le Murate
