Bow wow sulla barca
Bow wow on the boat
I’m surprised to learn that Stanley is a natural skipper! Of course, we wouldn’t want to denigrate the importance of Andrea as his first mate - but it was definitely Stan who was in charge of the boat!
So, of course, he set sail with a clear path in fair weather. He planned a route that would fulfill all our dreams, based on his navigational expertise and knowledge of the shipping forecast. It was an easy start as we boarded the Principessa Patty and relaxed into the sublime luxury of our very own vessel. Stan is no stranger to seafaring having skippered a boat on Lake Ullswater. That said, this was by far the most beautiful boat he’d had the chance to experience. He wasn’t the only one!
Our first destination was the beautiful island of Capri. We’d decided not to disembark on the island, not least because arriving on a private boat costs 100 euros before you’ve even set foor in a restaurant, but also because we had a plan to go there the next day. The weather round the Amalfi coast meant we couldn’t take the traditional tour all along the Amalfi coastline to its namesake - the town of Amalfi. So, we customised our trip - seeing the best of the island from the water and then touring the Amalfi coast as far as Positano before turning back home to Vico.
The island of Capri reminded me of the rock formations of Thailand I had visited long before Stanley was a twinkle in my eye. Like there, rock formations rose jaggedly from the sea. But this time around, some twenty years after my visit to Thailand, I found myself a different person. Originally, they had formed part of the island of Capri, but weathered by erosion over time, they found themselves split from the main island. The result, a dramatic rock formation, known as the Faraglioni Capri.
There are four ‘stacks’ rising some 100 metres above the sea level. The stack pictured is known as the Faraglioni di Mezzo. It’s renowned for its archway through which Stanley skillfully steered the boat. As with all great tourist attractions, there is best practise on how to experience it. If you’re alone; then make a wish. If you’re there with your loved one be sure to give them a kiss.
When I was ill, a good friend introduced me to the works of Pablo Neruda, Through them, I experienced a new appreciation of love and loss. He was an exiled Chilean poet who, in 1952, spent the Winter and Spring in Capri writing his most renowned work, The Captain’s Verses. A that time, he was in a passionate relationship with Matilde Urrutia, whom he later married. She was not his only love, but definitely his great love!
Rather than let me explain what he means to me, I thought it best to share one of his most famous quotes:
"Someday, somewhere - anywhere, unfailingly, you'll find yourself, and that, and only that, can be the happiest or bitterest hour of your life."
And, if you were to spend one of the happiest hours of your life, what better place to do it than on the beach in Nerano. Emperor Tiberio Nerone found the place, fell in love with it and named it Neronianum. There will be more about him in our next post. He wasn’t the only one to be entranced by its charms. Jennifer Lopez and Ben Affleck enjoyed a lunch at the Il Scoglio restaurant. We achieved that celebrity feeling too. In order to get to the beach, the boat has to be met by a smaller motorboat directly from the restaurant you choose to eat in. There was something very special about that brief journey and, as we landed on the jetty of Il Cantuccio the staff had already placed our sun beds strategically on the beach. Even Stan spent a few glorious moments sunning himself before settling under the shade of the sunbed. My friend followed the local advice and chose Spaghetti alla Nerona; a delicious spaghetti dish made with fried courgette (zuchinni).
As we completed our lunch in Nerano the weather had cleared sufficiently to allow us to continue on to Positano. Whilst we didn’t have time to disembark, we saw it in all its glory from the sea. Stan was particularly keen to get a glimpse of the place, since every year it holds a special festival that he holds dear to his heart. Here in Positano, the locals hold the blessing of the dogs. The blessing is as a result of Saint Vitus and his story is very beguiling. According to legend, Vitus was tortured by being left in the company of rabid dogs. Rather than falling foul of a vicious attack, Vitus presence healed the dogs so he became one of the 14 Holy Helpers. Since that time, the image of Saint Vitus has forever been associated with that of man’s best friend, the dog! No wonder Stan was keen to meet him, No doubt one second in Vitus’ company would have cleared the remnants of his mosquito bite in a flash. Stanley is already making plans to return in June of next year and picking out his yellow bandana so he can celebrate in style!
As I started this post, I was struck by how much this day was an experience of all our senses. Sure, there are stories to tell of the places we visited and the food we ate. However, by far the larger part was how this day made us feel. It’s sometimes hard to convey that. Nothing captures it better than watching Stanley enjoying his time on the boat.
Stanley skippers the boat
Our boat for the day Principessa Patty
Faraglioni di Mezzo - make sure to make a wish!
You won’t find a better lunch than here in Nerano
Stan getting those Autumn rays of sun before settling in the shade
A day to cherish
