La vita nel parco Roma
Parklife in Rome
As all dog lovers know parks matter! Stan and I miss Clissold Park and our friends Sue, Nero and Lando. So, whenever we can we get a bit of park life in Italy. This time, we are very lucky as we are five minutes’ walk from Rome’s finest park, the Villa Borghese.
This Sunday morning, fathers and sons play football with the passion of Juventus. Runners circumvent the park in the November sunshine. Musicians provide a magical, musical accompaniment to an already perfect scene. Tourists and Italians blend almost seamlessly in enjoying the clear skies after the thunderstorms of yesterday. The best way to tell them apart is to observe the different driving styles on the many family sized electric pedal bikes. I had fun trying to guess the nationality by watching those that plan meticulously, map in hand, versus those that who squeal with laughter as they aimlessly make their way around. So far, it’s sounding much like any other park you might find anywhere in the world. However, this is no ordinary park - of course it’s not. Whilst it may lack the manicured finish of London’s finest parks, it more than makes up for it with the many historic monuments that appear at every turn.
Stan has enjoyed checking out the main sites. Italy’s armistice took place only yesterday, November 4th in 1918. It felt right that Stan show his respect at the monument to the humble mule that played an important part in Italy’s fight. If you think about it, it makes sense they were such a crucial piece of the campaign. Much of the action took place in the mountainous alpine north - in the so-called White War. More men died as a result of the arduous, yet stunning terrain than as a result of direct action.
The mule wasn’t the only animal on display, Stan wanted to know why the Italians seemed to like dragons so much. He’d seen them all over Rome - though he found these particular ones a little scary. So, I did a bit of research and learnt that the dragon is used along with the eagle on the Borghese family crest. Each of the main historic and often rivalrous families had their own crests - it’s fun to know which animal represents which family as you amble along Rome’s streets.
Onwards, and a new monument caught Stanley’s eye. Mum said she’d seen something similar when she’d visited the Roman Forum. This was a temple built in the spirit of the orginal in 1792 to celebrate Emporer Antoninus Pius and Faustina. These two were in power between 138 and 161, suffice to say Sealyhams hadn’t even been dreamt about at that time.
Finally Stanley asked if he could try to imagine what it might feel like to be immortalised in his own statue. We looked carefully, and he plumped for this podium and gracefully positioned himseld for his portrait. Causing something of a stir amongst the locals, I wasn’t the only one who wanted to take his picture!
By now, Stan was pooped and happy to settle at home for a well earned rest. I couldn’t continue the Villa Borghese theme by visiting the gallery itself since it was already fully booked. However, on Lisa’s advice, I made my way to the home of their rivals - the Barberinis. A set of three very beautiful bees adorn their family crest and you can also find jewellery depicting them all over Rome. This gallery was free and I was able to visit with just one day’s notice. If you haven’t been to the main monuments in Rome, it’s vital that you do book ahead. Fortunately, I’ve already seen the Villa Borghese so it was fun to go somewhere new. Like its more famous rival, the Palazzo Barberini has its fair share of masterpieces. Those that stood out for me included Caravaggio, Canaletto, Holbein and Bernini.
I’m firmly of the view that you don’t ‘do’ tourism and you don’t ‘do’ galleries. When you meet fellow tourists they will often ask, ‘Did you ‘do’ x?’ on your trip. It doesn’t irritate me that this is their word of choice. However, for me, it adds a degree of pressure on what ought to be an experience. It turns your holiday into a checklist or work to do list leaving you with a sense of inadequacy about all the things you didn’t do. In addition, faced with the pressure of seeing it all you can end up not really seeing anything at all. I know I’m blessed on this trip, I’ve got more time than I’ve ever had before to soak it all up. That said, I’d rather see one thing fully than a thousand at speed.
For that reason, I’ve chosen just one painting to reflect upon and it’s Caravaggio’s depiction of Judith’s beheading of Holofernes. You’re probably getting the picture that I admire strong women and Judith is amongst the strongest. The story goes that the town in which Judith is living is besieged by Holofernes. Judith cleverly escapes telling Holofernes that she believes him victorious and offers to entertain him in her camp. That night, plying him with alcohol, she gains her freedom and revenge by decapitating him. Whether or not her story is factually correct fails to trouble me. The Palazzo has three different versions of this same story told by three different artists. It’s fascinating to see how Judith is depicted variously as a seductress (barebreasted and with a coquettish gaze) or as Caravaggio does with a more realistic interpretation. Her furrowed brow seems to indicate a need to summon all her strength to carry out the heinous act as the withered maid looks on, bag in hand!
With the gallery behind us, Stan and I are off another local adventure. Lisa has offered to take us for an aperitif. And Polpi is coming too, Polpi is Lisa’s gorgeous golden retriever. Normally, Stan gets troubled by larger dogs but for some reason he just really loves Polpi and so do I. By now, the rain is pouring so Lisa offers to collect us in her car. This turns out to be an experience in itself. Polpi is Lisa’s best friend and normally takes pride of place in the front passenger seat. She doesn’t mind at all that Stan and I need to sit in her place, but it takes her a little time and a good old butt shove to get her to understand she needs to sit in the back.
We’re off to the Jewish quarter to enjoy a glass of wine and the lovely snacks that Italians provide with every drink. On the way, Lisa shares her love of Rome and all it means to her. She’s not a Roman, she comes from Emilia Romagna but you can tell her heart is in Rome. Stan and Polpi enjoyed the bread and roast potatoes but didn’t enjoy the butter beans at all. As the evening drew to a close, I got a glimpse of what it might be like to have two dogs - as you can tell, I wasn’t phased at all! On Lisa’s advice that evening I watched the movie, The Great Beauty, which tells the tale of an ageing Roman socialite. Episodic in nature, you’re left with a sense of the solitariness of life and a reminder to hold dear those that bring you joy.
The calm before the storm! Polpi in poll position
Soaking up the sun
Italians take their football seriously
Stan showing respect for the humble hero of WW1 - the mule
Dragons and eagles are used as part of the Borghese family crest
I feel so small!
Stanley takes his place at the Temple of Diana
Caravaggio’s depiction of Judith’s beheading of Holofernes
The blurryness only adds to the authenticity
Sure, I can take care of two!
