Stanley si rilassa come uno del posto
Stanley relaxes like a local!
I don’t know why I haven’t spoken about the home we’re staying in until now. Perhaps I thought if I didn’t share anything about it, I might really imagine it was my home and not that of my new friend, Lisa. Often the places you swap with are second homes, so, by default, they lack the individualism that you get when entering someone’s home. And that’s what this place is, a home. One that is packed with personality. Everywhere you look, a story unfolds through the many paintings, photos, and plants. Mid-twentieth century furniture provides deliciously comfortable places to recline. The copious amount of books leaves me hankering ever so slightly for my own home. The decor elevates the term shabby chic to a new level and I love it. Stan does too! It’s not just Lisa’s home that has brought joy - she’s been so welcoming. We’ve never felt lonely in all our time here. That said, this is the day we move on from this lovely home, so reality hits - it’s really not our place!
Before we left, we thought we should indulge in a chill out morning. Most of us have things we’ve always believed we are no good at. I will spare you my full list, but right at the top is drawing. Growing up in the 80’s it was much more common for teachers to let you know what you weren’t any good at. Those perceptions can stick! For me, I know it’s a combination of an art teachers’ exasperation and the killer of creativity - trying too hard! I could write a book about trying too hard - don’t worry, I won’t. What I’ve found with most things, is that by relaxing and just being I almost immediately achieve a better result than when I try too hard. So it felt good to while away an hour trying, but not too hard, to draw!
The area we’ve been staying in is called Flaminio, it’s a district to the North of Rome known for its cultural and sporting history. It was officially established as a residential area in 1921. British people struggle with the concept of apartment living, though its popularity has risen, of course, in major cities. The apartment blocks built at the turn of the century are perfectly designed and constructed. They offer a gated haven for family life situated in wide tree-lined boulevards. Lisa’s terrace is an oasis, lovingly lit with pretty lights and populated with lush plants. Her beautiful maple tree named, Antonio, flourishes under her care. When the Olympic Village was built here in the 1960’s newer housing was erected for some 8,000 visiting architects - I joined a pilates class in one of them earlier in the week. They solicit a similar response from locals as that of many modernist schemes elsewhere in the world - if you’re an architect you will love them! I found this a useful summary of their history.
Since that time, the area has become the hub of cultural venues for a modern Rome. Architect Zaha Hadid’s stunning MAXXI Museum of Modern Art is across the road from where we stay. On Halloween, children played in its grounds, underneath its famous neon lights. That’s when these public spaces work best, when they are enjoyed, playing their part in the community they were built to serve. Whilst, I often feel conflicted about the 60’s residential schemes like that of the Olympic Village - the same cannot be said of this masterpiece. For those of you that don’t know about Hadid - she’s a woman! An Iraqi born woman who studied Mathematics at the American University of Beirut.
You don’t have to walk far, to discover yet another modernist masterpiece - the Parco della Musica designed by Italy’s own Renzo Piano. I found it quite hard to get that clear vista of both buildings that you get when looking at the wide, open position of buildings like the South Bank. Piano’s three concert halls look like giant armadillo’s circling around an open outdoor auditorium. I decided early on that the only way to experience them properly was from the inside.
Choosing what to see didn’t go exactly as planned. It was a choice between classical music and jazz. For those of you that know me, I have had a long-standing relationship both with jazz and modern architecture. Such was its longevity that, now that the relationship with the significant other that sparked it is over, I honestly questioned whether I ever liked them in my own right. For that reason, I selected to see Beethoven’s 3rd Symphony, however it was fully booked leaving me ruminating on whether or not John Scofield was a good choice.
I’m so glad I went. I’m so glad I could look back on my jazz musical memories fondly and recognise that joy had truly been my own. John Scofield played with the greats - in the 1970’s with Miles Davis and Charles Mingus. The last time I felt that chill from seeing someone so connected was in the 1990’s when Elvin Jones played at Ronnie Scott’s. Many of us love artists that have spanned a lifetime. Born before us, they connect to musicians that define a genre. Seeing them in their later years and appreciating all that they have seen, have done and can still do is humbling. John Scofield is 72 years old. I’m too humble and ill-informed to put into words this musical experience. What I would say, and perhaps this is true of all great musicians, is that instrument and musician appeared as one. Seamlessly connected creatures in pursuit of perfection. What I love about the improv parts is that each musician is on an adventure with their instrument, allowing the journey to unfold organically, confident in the knowledge that the right destination will be found and respecting each other’s narrative turn along the way. The two hours passed all too fast. In the concert, he played tribute to Carla Bley, a female composer who died last week aged 87. No doubt, I’d heard her music before but I’m woefully poor at remembering artists. It made me reflect on the oh so many female artists (in every sense of the word) that don’t reach everyday familiarity. So, whether you or not you like jazz, I hope this triggers you to think about those musical heros you love. And, if you find yourself reflecting that they are predominantly male - get onto google and you’ll probably find they were associated with a truly talented female artist too.
Whilst I’ve been here, except for checking in on Sky News and watching the occasional film linked to the trip, I’ve watched no TV at all! I’ve never been one to get caught up in YouTube or TikTok rabbit holes - apart from my first video posts of Stan on this trip. It’s proved something to me and will be one of my key reflections of the trip. There are so many creative ways to spend our time. Whilst, I won’t be foregoing televisual stimulation on my return to ‘normal’ life - I’m sure it will be a more balanced element!
It would be remiss of me not to mention that Lisa is an expert in this area. A journalist for RAI the equivalent of the BBC, she wrote a book called ‘Eight Seconds” and did a TEDX talk about it. She explores our love/hate relationship with social media and shares our brains now have a cut off point beyond which we get distracted. I haven’t counted but I’m pretty sure reading this post is taking you over those 8 seconds!
So if you’ve got this far, then you’re doing well!
Stanley relaxes
It’s better when I don’t try to hard!
Urban living Roman style
We felt connected to the message of the neon lights
Stunning lines and secret vistas at the MAXXI
Renzo Piano’s, Parca della Musica
Waiting for the John Scofield Trio
Please can we stay here, I like it so much!
